The Peninsula Valdes is one of Argentina’s hidden gems – a natural paradise that’s off the beaten track for many travelers, but a perfect destination for those interested in wildlife, nature photography and adventure. It’s also a great place for a family trip with younger children.

Located on the Atlantic Coast, the peninsula is an important nature reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 3,625 sq. km peninsula is home to sea lions, the largest continental elephant seal colonies in the world, Magellan penguins, various seabirds and terrestrial animals, and is an important site for mating and calving southern right whales and orcas. 

I had the chance to visit the peninsula in November 2009, one of the best months for top wildlife encounters – an enormous whale mama and her baby, colonies of charming penguins, a nandu (less rhea) dad with his flock of chicks, and got up close and personal with a wide-eyed curious baby elephant seal. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, to say the least! 

The peninsula is reached by a flight to Trelew, in the province of Chubut. There is then a 2 1/2 hour drive to reach the peninsula. The largest town on the peninsula is a the tiny hamlet of Puerto Piramides, which is also the launching place for boat rides to spot whales. However, the best accommodations, the ones that let you sample a luxurious version of ranchers’ traditional lifestyles combined with access to some of the most breathtaking sites, are outside town and deep in the peninsula’s arid grasslands.

My favorite is Estancia Rincon Chico, an owner-operated property near the coast, which continues to operate as a traditional sheep ranch. A charming guest house has rustic, elegant rooms and a cozy living room where guests can relax by the fire with an Argentine vintage.

A collection of treasures found while beach-combing is displayed in the entryway, and books and magazines in the living room are perfect evening reading material. Within the estancia property there is access to several private beaches for elephant-seal expeditions. In fact, the owners have been involved in preservation efforts and scientific studies of these enormous creatures for the past 15 years, and both are locals. Watching the big bull seals fight, and seeing the sweet faces of the babies at short range makes for an exciting day. 

An ideal stay at Rincon Chico is 2-3 nights, with visits around the property, and a day of whale-watching from Puerto Piramides.

Or, combine Rincon Chico with El Pedral, with two nights at each property. El Pedral is another favorite, located at Punta Ninfas (not on the peninsula). El Pedral is an early 20th century Norman-style house that was shipped piece by piece to Argentina from France in the 1920s. Lovely gardens surround the house, and there are views to the ocean. The estancia has activities like ATV rides along the beach (where you can beachcomb to your heart’s delight), horseback riding, bike riding, and hikes along the beach. They have a boat for whale-watching, and there is a small but growing penguin colony at one end of the beach.

Contact us for information on these properties and others, as well as visits to the Punta Tombo penguin colony, tea houses in Gaiman and the paleontology museum in Trelew – all fantastic activities for all ages. The best season for visiting this area is September-December.